3-day program designed to teach you the basics of glacier travel and crevasse rescue.

Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel

This is a 3-day program designed to teach you the basics of glacier travel and crevasse rescue. This course is scheduled during the summer season and can be arranged with custom dates. 
 
 
Program Details

 

Below are several videos by NCMG owners Jeff Ward and Larry Goldie. These videos highlight some of the techniques you will learn on your Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel Course and are a good reference to use in preparation for your course. You will be learning a lot of information on this course and the more prepared you are the more information you will retain.    

 

Crevasse Rescue: Transfer the Load from American Mountain Guides Assoc on Vimeo.

Crevasse Rescue: Backing Up a Picket from American Mountain Guides Assoc on Vimeo.

Crevasse Rescue: Prepping the Lip from American Mountain Guides Assoc on Vimeo.

Crevasse Rescue: Hauling from American Mountain Guides Assoc on Vimeo.

    Itinerary

    Day One: Depending on the conditions and time of year, there are several areas we may choose for this program. On the first day, we will hike into a base camp, set up camp and spend the afternoon on several topics.

    These will include:

    • Various rope configurations
    • Roping up – How far apart
    • Tying off excess rope
    • Prussik systems
    • Ascending the rope
    • Snow anchors
    • Team rope travel

    Day Two: We will use the previous day’s skills and venture out onto a glacier. We will discuss route finding and rope management. Touring around on the glacier will eventually lead us to a suitable crevasse for rescue practice. Here we will cover the following topics:

    • Probing for hidden crevasses
    • Arresting a crevasse fall
    • Multiple rescue and pulley systems; 2:1, 3:1, 6:1, 9:1 etc.
    Students will have the majority of the day to practice crevasse rescue in a variety of teams. The most difficult being the two-person team where the entire rescue is performed by one person. We feel it is important to have each student run through this life-saving rescue procedure at least once.

    Day Three: We will leave early for a final glacier tour with a student out front, route finding and managing the team.  There will be time for several students to have a turn on the front of the rope before heading down to break camp.  Back at camp we will debrief the morning’s tour and answer any remaining questions. Afterward we will pack up and hike out the trailhead.

    Skills Required

    To get the most out of a program like this it is important for climbers to arrive with some basic skills.  If you feel like you lack these skills consider adding an extra day before the start of this program to cover these core skills.

    • Basic snow climbing and descending techniques
    • Self-arrest
    • Use of crampons
    • Basic knots – figure eight, clove hitch, double fisherman’s
    • Glacier Travel Training

       

      EQUIPMENT LIST – GLACIER TRAVEL TRAINING

      TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:

      • Glacier Travel Training Course

      A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand.  All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather.  Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable.  Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast.  With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.

      CLOTHING

      Head, Hands & Feet

      • Warm Hat
      • Sun Hat
      • Buff
      • Lightweight Gloves 
      • Midweight Gloves
      • Heavyweight Gloves (waterproof and breathable)
      • Warm Socks (~2)

      Upper Body Layers

      • Lightweight Base Layer 
      • Lightweight Fleece Jacket
      • Softshell Jacket with Hood
      • Puffy Jacket with Hood
      • Hardshell Jacket with Hood

      Lower Body Layers

      • Lightweight Baselayer Bottom
      • Softshell Pants
      • Hardshell Pants

      ACCESSORIES

      • Sunscreen and SPF lip balm
      • Water & Food
      • Headlamp
      • Blister Kit
      • Backpack (35-50 Liters)
      • Sunglasses/Goggles
      • Cloth Mask
      • Hand Sanitizer

      CLIMBING / TECHNICAL (these may be rented from NCMG)

      • Ice Axe (lightweight)
      • Boot Crampons (recommend aluminum for weight savings)
      • Climbing harness (a lightweight model will be more comfortable)

      CREVASSE RESCUE GEAR

      • 5  locking carabiners 
      • 6 non-locking carabiners
      • 1 Double-Length (120cm) Dyneema/spectra sewn runner
      • 1 cordalette 18—21 feet long, 6mm—7mm
      • 2 Friction hitches 
      • Optional: 1 Petzl Micro Traxion ratcheting pulley

      OVERNIGHT GEAR

      • Tent (4 seasons, lightweight)
      • Sleeping Bag (15-20 degree rating)
      • Sleeping Pad (inflatable)
      • Stove (recommend isobutene stoves over liquid fuel)
      • Fuel (adequate for cooking and melting snow for water – the quantity will vary with the trip length; please consult your guide)
      • Cooking Pot 
      • Bowl, Cup, Spoon
      • Utensils
      • Toiletries: toilet paper, a tiny tube of toothpaste, a toothbrush and earplugs (optional)

       

    • Jeff Ward, co-owner of NCMG, is a fully certified AMGA and IFMGA licensed Mountain Guide and has been working as a full-time professional mountain guide since 1995.  In addition to working as a guide for NCMG, Jeff is an instructor and examiner for the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), teaching the next generation of American mountain guides. Jeff lives in Leavenworth, WA with his wife Kristen and 14-year old daughter Allison.

    • Larry Goldie, co-owner and lead guide for NCMG, has been making a living as a mountain guide for over two decades. He has climbed, skied and guided extensively in the Cascades, with additional experience in the Alps, Sierras, Rockies, Alaska, Canada and Antarctica. In addition to guiding for NCMG, Larry is an instructor and examiner for the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), as well as an instructor trainer for AIARE, also being one of a select few teaching AIARE Pro 2 courses. With that background, Larry is one of our lead avalanche educators. Larry is an internationally (IFMGA) licensed Mountain guide and AMGA certified guide.

    • Paul Butler, co-owner of NCMG, has been guiding in the North Cascades for over 17 years. His experience has been a combination of private guiding and working as a Chief Instructor for the Pacific Crest Outward Bound School. His passion for climbing has led to adventures all over the western United States as well as abroad in Ecuador, Patagonia and the Alps. He is a level III PSIA certified Nordic and backcountry ski guide.

    • Drew Lovell has been basing out of the Eastern Cascades since 2003, where community, weather, rock, and snow have all conspired to help call this place home.

      A climbing and skiing guide since 1998, he has worked in the Cascades, the High Sierra, the Chugach, Wrangell, and St.Elias Ranges. Over 20 years of personal experience in alpine climbing and ski mountaineering have delivered Drew to high and wild places from China to Alaska and cultures in between. Educated as a Geologist, Drew has also worked as a Field Biologist, Avalanche Forecaster, Climbing Ranger, and professional Ski Patroller.

    • Joshua Cole, a co-owner of NCMG, has been adventuring in the mountains for more than 20 years, and guiding since 2004. He has climbed and skied extensively in the North Cascades, Swiss Alps, Italian Dolomites, Sierra Nevada, New Zealand and the ranges of SW Montana. Josh has given trainings and presentations on wilderness risk management to numerous organizations and is a risk management consultant for Experiential Consulting. Josh has worked as a professional ski patroller in Montana and New Zealand, and has a former life as a geologist. Josh works in the North Cascades as a ski, alpine and rock guide for NCMG. Josh is an IFMGA Licensed Guide, and is certified by the AMGA in the Rock, Alpine, and Ski disciplines.

    • Steph Williams first worked as a guide in 2003 on the glaciers of Alaska’s Wrangell Mountains. Since then she has been privileged to work and play in the spectacular alpine wildlands of India, Iceland, Switzerland, New Zealand, China, Chile, and across western North America. She spent a decade as a professional ski patroller at Stevens Pass, teaches Nordic skiing in the Methow Valley, and surveys the North Cascades wolverines as a field biologist.

      A Michigan native, the Pacific Northwest has been home to Steph since 2001. She lives with her husband, Drew, in Twisp.

    • Ross grew up in Central Washington where his passion for being in the outdoors started at an early age. His previous profession as a Forest Service Smokejumper brought him to the Methow Valley in 2016, and he hasn’t left since.     

       

      Ross’s pursuit of mountain and cultural exploration has taken him from the wilds of the Tien Shan in Central Asia to the Himalaya of Nepal. The North Cascades will always be his favorite place to explore, though, and he never gets tired of venturing into a new part of the range. 

       

      Ross holds an Avalanche Professional Level 1 certification and has taken the Rock, Alpine, and Ski Guides Courses through the American Mountain Guides Association. When he is not out climbing or skiing in the North Cascades, he can be found enjoying life with his partner, Cristina, and their dog, Koda. 

    • Born in Rhode Island, Nate grew up adventuring in the small but rugged mountains of the Northeast. Since then, he has followed his passion for climbing all over the world to Patagonia, Thailand, India and the farthest reaches of Northern Canada. He has been guiding professionally for 8 years. He now spends his summers in Index, WA and the rest of his year guiding in Joshua Tree, CA. Nate continues to find inspiration in the mountains and loves sharing these experiences with others. When he's not working you can find him climbing or ski touring in the Sierra Nevadas, Cascades, and Rockies. Nate is an AMGA Certified Rock Guide and AIARE Level 1.

    1:1 $1,785

    2:1 $1,275

    3:1 $975

    4:1 $900

    per person

    Dates

    Private courses can be scheduled anytime between May 1 – Oct 1.

     

    Technical Difficulty