Take Your Multi-pitch Climbing Skills to the Next Level 

Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing Course

This 2-day course is designed to teach you all the basic skills necessary to climb an alpine summit, and then put them to the test on day 2 on a summit climb at Washington pass. This is an ideal program for those wanting to get into climbing, as it will set a solid foundation of skills that you can continue to build on as you continue your development as a climber. It is also a great program for those that just want to climb an iconic peak such as Liberty Bell or South Early Winter Spire and do it comfortably and with a high margin of safety since we limit the group size to 2:1 or 1:1 - and this also means more personalized attention for each climber.

    Itinerary

    Day One:

    We begin at one of several local rock climbing sites where we can focus on all of the skills you will need to become a safe member of a climbing party. Topics will include:

    • Use and care of equipment
    • Belaying
    • Variety of climbing techniques including: crack climbing, face climbing, chimney climbing and mantling
    • Laybacking
    • Energy conservation
    • Placing and cleaning protection
    • Building anchors
    • Multi-pitch station management
    • Rappelling

    Day Two:

    We will head into the mountains early and put our new skills to the test. There are a number of classic moderate routes in the Washington Pass area from which we will choose a climb for our summit attempt. Among these are the South Arete of South Early Winter Spire, and The Beckey Route on Liberty Bell. Early season climbs may require the use of boots and an ice axe on the approach, whereas later in the season climbs can be reached via a climbers trail in light hiking boots

    • Alpine Rock - Grade II 5.7, 6 pitches

      Liberty Bell - Beckey Route

      The Beckey Route is quite possibly the most famous alpine rock climb in all of the North Cascades. Offering the most moderate route up this iconic peak, the Beckey route follows the Southwest face up a clever series of cracks, chimneys and slabs for four pitches to the summit of Liberty Bell.
       
      First climbed in 1946, long before the North Cascades Highway existed, by the prolific first ascensionist, Fred Beckey via a 16 mile approach from the end of Twisp River. Climbers nowadays enjoy the convenience of Highway 20 and the Blue Lake trail to make this approach short, scenic and the route easily doable in a day.
       
      This climb varies considerably with the time of year. Early season, the Beckey route feels like a full-on alpine endeavor, with snow on much or all of the approach. A steep snow couloir guards the base of the climb, and often ice hides in the back of the second pitch chimney. Later in the season, its possible to walk to the base in a pair of lightweight hiking boots and on some days, you can even climb the route in shorts!
        Itinerary

        Depending on the conditions and fitness, the approach will take between an hour and a half to two and a half hours. The first half of this is on a comfortable and popular hiking trail that goes to Blue Lake. Close to the lake we veer off and head up a steep climbers trail. Climbers tend not to worry about switchbacks and trail aesthetics and prefer to head straight up toward their objective. This section of trail is steep in places and has a few short sections of scrambling on 3rd class rock. Trekking poles are highly recommended for this approach! Early in the season, the approach will require an ice axe and crampons to ascend the steep approach gully.

         
        Once on the rock, climbers will encounter 5th class climbing up to 5.7 in difficulty. While much of the climb is graded in the low fifth class range, many climbers find the “5.4” chimney on pitch 2 to be the crux of the route. There is several hundred feet of 4th class scrambling to reach the actual summit.
         
        The descent is completed by downclimbing the 4th class sections and then making several rappels back into the approach couloir where we have cached our gear.
        Skills Required
        • Climbers should know how to belay and be comfortable following mid-fifth class rock. We generally leave packs at the base of the climb.
         
        Fast parties that make good time on the Beckey route might be interested in trying to climb one of the other nearby routes. When its not busy with people descending the peak, the rappel route, “Overexposure” offers a couple of great 5.8 pitches right near the start of the climb. Rapple Grapple is also a guides favorite with 3 pitches of 5.7 finger and hand cracks. More ambitious might want to try one of the routes on the North face of Concord Tower. Just across the gully, there are several worthy routes in the 5.7 range.
        Available Guides
        • Profile picture for user Jeff Ward

          Jeff Ward

        • Profile picture for user Larry Goldie

          Larry Goldie

        • Profile picture for user Paul Butler

          Paul Butler

        • Profile picture for user Drew Lovell

          Drew Lovell

        • Profile picture for user Josh Cole

          Joshua Cole

        • Profile picture for user Steph Williams

          Steph Williams

        • Profile picture for user Ross Lindell

          Ross Lindell

        • Profile picture for user Nate Pakula

          Nate Pakula

        • Profile picture for user Adam Butterfield

          Adam Butterfield

        Gear List

        $500 1:1

        $375 2:1

        Duration
        Technical Difficulty
      • Alpine Rock - Grade II 5.8, 4 pitches

        Liberty Bell - Overexposure

        Overexposure is the quickest way to the summit of Liberty Bell. Offering two pitches of high quality 5.8 finger crack and liebacking up super clean granite, this route is often climbed as an added bonus after finishing up one of the other routes in the area.
         
        The climb itself is most commonly used as the rappel route for all of the climbs on Liberty Bell. Because of this, it can get very busy later in the day with climbers rappelling off of the spire. Early in the day, however, this little gem is free of crowds and offers a great alternative to its much more popular neighbor, the Beckey Route.
         
        While actually a worthy climb on its own, Overexposure makes a great link up with one or two of the other routes on Liberty Bell or Concord tower if you are making good time.
         
        When linking Overexposure with another Liberty Bell climb, we will often only climb the first two pitches and begin rappelling from there, rather than repeating the fourth class scrambling to the summit. this allows us to get a couple of bonus pitches of high quality climbing in!
          Itinerary
          Depending on the conditions and fitness, the approach will take between an hour and a half to two and a half hours. The first half of this is on a comfortable and popular hiking trail that goes to Blue Lake. Close to the lake we veer off and head up a steep climbers trail. Climbers tend not to worry about switchbacks and trail aesthetics and prefer to head straight up toward their objective. This section of trail is steep in places and has a few short sections of scrambling on 3rd class rock. Trekking poles are highly recommended for this approach! Early in the season, the approach will require an ice axe and crampons to ascend the steep approach gully.
           
          The climb starts out with some tricky moves right off of the ground at the top of the notch between Liberty Bell and Concord Towers. Since we will be rappelling back to this spot, we usually cache most or all of our gear right here. The climbing is fairly sustained in the 5.7 – 5.8 range and consists of finger cracks and liebacking on the clean granite. The second pitch tops out at the start of the Liberty Bell rappels and your guide will often have these pre-rigged and ready to go when you arrive. If you are continuing to the summit, it's a few hundred feet of fourth and low fifth class scrambling to the top.
           
          The descent is completed by downclimbing the upper sections and then making several rappels down the route back into the approach couloir where we have cached our gear.
          Skills Required
          Climbers should know how to belay and be comfortable following mid-fifth class rock. We generally leave packs at the base of the climb.
           
          The Obvious combination here is with the Beckey route, though Rapple Grapple is also a guides favorite with 3 pitches of 5.7 finger and hand cracks. More ambitious parties might want to try one of the routes on the North face of Concord Tower. Just across the gully, there are several worthy routes in the 5.7 range.
           
          More information:
           
          Recommended reading: Washington Pass Supertopo
          Gear List

          $500 1:1

          $375 2:1

          Duration
          Technical Difficulty
        • Alpine Rock - Grade II 5.6 600'

          South Early Winter Spire- South Arete

          The South Arete is one of the most joyful climbs we have ever done. While it has a very moderate rating, many of our guides consider it a favorite climb. The combination of a beautiful, scenic approach, great rock, fun climbing and awesome exposure make this one hard to beat.

            Itinerary

            The route has a long season and can be done in the very early or late season with snow on the route for a full alpine experience. During the bulk of the climbing season, it is dry and offers a mix of great scrambling and short steps of low fifth class climbing. It is a great climb for moving quickly in preparation for a bigger alpine objective or having a comfortable relaxed day on a spectacular perch on the highest summit of the Early Winter massif.

            Skills Required

            This is a climb that can be accomplished by most people, even with a minimal climbing background. While the climbing is fairly easy, it feels real enough and often exposed enough, that you will certainly feel like you have just climbed a mountain.

            Available Guides
            • Profile picture for user Jeff Ward

              Jeff Ward

            • Profile picture for user Larry Goldie

              Larry Goldie

            • Profile picture for user Paul Butler

              Paul Butler

            • Profile picture for user Drew Lovell

              Drew Lovell

            • Profile picture for user Josh Cole

              Joshua Cole

            • Profile picture for user Steph Williams

              Steph Williams

            • Profile picture for user Ross Lindell

              Ross Lindell

            • Profile picture for user Nate Pakula

              Nate Pakula

            • Profile picture for user Adam Butterfield

              Adam Butterfield

            Gear List

            $500 1:1

            $375 2:1

            Duration
            Technical Difficulty
          • Alpine Rock - Grade III 5.8, 10 pitches

            South Early Winter Spire - Southwest Rib

            The Southwest Rib of South Early Winter Spire (SEWS) is one of the best 5.8 routes in the state.  It contains a variety of climbing from chimneys to slabs and everything in between.  It is one of our favorite climbs at Washington Pass and many guests come back to climb this route year after year.

              Itinerary
              The climb is 10 pitches long with 2 pitches in the 5.8/5.8+ range.  The quality and variety of the climbing are what makes this climb so classic.  The “Wavy Crack," the “Bear Hug” pitch, and the “Nervous Nelly” pitch are all memorable pitches.  There is also the option to add in some variations to make the route a little harder if so desired.
               
              The descent takes you down the regular route on SEWS – The South Arete, via a combination of down-climbing and short rappels.
              Skills Required
              This climb is a good route for climbers comfortable following 5.8 crack climbs.  It is also a good option for more experienced climbers working on their lead climbing and belay stance management on multi-pitch routes.
               
              Participants should have previous belaying and rappelling experience.  We recommend climbers have previous experience on multi-pitch routes but it is not required.
               
              There are numerous climbs in the Washington Pass area in this grade.  Recommended routes include the South Buttress of Cutthroat, The Becky Route, OverExposure and Rappel Grapple on Liberty Bell and the regular routes on Concord and Lexington Tower. For more information check out the New Super Topo Guidebook to the area.
              Gear List

              $500 1:1

              $375 2:1

              Duration
              Technical Difficulty
            Skills Required

            No previous climbing experience is required for this course.

            • Alpine Rock

               

              EQUIPMENT LIST – ALPINE CLIMBING DAY TRIPS

              TRIPS COVERED BY THIS LIST:

              • Washington Pass Climbing
              • Multipitch Climbing Course

              A NOTE ABOUT EQUIPMENT LISTS: Nothing can ruin a trip faster than having the wrong gear for the conditions at hand.  All our programs are subject to rapid and severe changes in the weather.  Select garments that are warm, lightweight, and durable.  Generally speaking, the best arrangement is to think in terms of layers – a system that dries quickly, allows flexibility, and resists wind, water, and abrasion. All of us have different tolerances for heat or cold; for example, you might choose warmer gloves than specified here if you tend to get cold hands. If you have doubts about a specific garment’s appropriateness, please talk to your guide in advance about conditions you are most likely to experience. This list is built for a trip with an unsettled weather forecast.  With good weather, some of these items may be left behind to save weight. All trips require that you bring adequate food and water, please see our “food” equipment list for details.

              CLOTHING

              Head, Hands & Feet

              • Warm Hat
              • Sun Hat
              • Lightweight Gloves (or belay gloves)
              • Approach Shoes (sticky rubber soles recommended)

              Upper Body Layers

              • Lightweight Base Layer Top or Sun shirt
              • Lightweight Fleece jacket
              • Softshell Jacket with Hood
              • Insulated (“Puffy”) Jacket with Hood

              Lower Body Layers

              • Softshell Pants
              • Optional: shorts for the approach hike

              Options Layers for colder or wetter weather

              • Hardshell Jacket
              • Lightweight rain pants

              ACCESSORIES

              • Backpack (25-35 Liters)
              • Optional: on-route pack (a very small pack for your essentials on route)
              • Sunglasses
              • Trekking Poles

              ACCESSORIES continued…

              • Sunscreen and SPF lip balm
              • Water & Food (see our food  guide)
              • Headlamp
              • Blister Kit
              • Cloth Mask
              • Hand Sanitizer 
              • Optional: Crack Gloves (for routes with lots of crack climbing)

              TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

              • Climbing Helmet
              • Climbing Harness
              • Belay Device
              • 2 Locking Carabiners
              • Double Length Nylon or Dyneema Runner (or personal anchor system -- NO daisy chains)

              TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT – SPRING (snow travel; please ask your guide about current conditions)

              • Mountain Boots (crampon compatible)
              • Steel crampons
              • Ice Axe

               

            • Jeff Ward, co-owner of NCMG, is a fully certified AMGA and IFMGA licensed Mountain Guide and has been working as a full-time professional mountain guide since 1995.  In addition to working as a guide for NCMG, Jeff is an instructor and examiner for the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), teaching the next generation of American mountain guides. Jeff lives in Leavenworth, WA with his wife Kristen and 14-year old daughter Allison.

            • Larry Goldie, co-owner and lead guide for NCMG, has been making a living as a mountain guide for over two decades. He has climbed, skied and guided extensively in the Cascades, with additional experience in the Alps, Sierras, Rockies, Alaska, Canada and Antarctica. In addition to guiding for NCMG, Larry is an instructor and examiner for the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), as well as an instructor trainer for AIARE, also being one of a select few teaching AIARE Pro 2 courses. With that background, Larry is one of our lead avalanche educators. Larry is an internationally (IFMGA) licensed Mountain guide and AMGA certified guide.

            • Paul Butler, co-owner of NCMG, has been guiding in the North Cascades for over 17 years. His experience has been a combination of private guiding and working as a Chief Instructor for the Pacific Crest Outward Bound School. His passion for climbing has led to adventures all over the western United States as well as abroad in Ecuador, Patagonia and the Alps. He is a level III PSIA certified Nordic and backcountry ski guide.

            • Drew Lovell has been basing out of the Eastern Cascades since 2003, where community, weather, rock, and snow have all conspired to help call this place home.

              A climbing and skiing guide since 1998, he has worked in the Cascades, the High Sierra, the Chugach, Wrangell, and St.Elias Ranges. Over 20 years of personal experience in alpine climbing and ski mountaineering have delivered Drew to high and wild places from China to Alaska and cultures in between. Educated as a Geologist, Drew has also worked as a Field Biologist, Avalanche Forecaster, Climbing Ranger, and professional Ski Patroller.

            • Joshua Cole, a co-owner of NCMG, has been adventuring in the mountains for more than 20 years, and guiding since 2004. He has climbed and skied extensively in the North Cascades, Swiss Alps, Italian Dolomites, Sierra Nevada, New Zealand and the ranges of SW Montana. Josh has given trainings and presentations on wilderness risk management to numerous organizations and is a risk management consultant for Experiential Consulting. Josh has worked as a professional ski patroller in Montana and New Zealand, and has a former life as a geologist. Josh works in the North Cascades as a ski, alpine and rock guide for NCMG. Josh is an IFMGA Licensed Guide, and is certified by the AMGA in the Rock, Alpine, and Ski disciplines.

            • Steph Williams first worked as a guide in 2003 on the glaciers of Alaska’s Wrangell Mountains. Since then she has been privileged to work and play in the spectacular alpine wildlands of India, Iceland, Switzerland, New Zealand, China, Chile, and across western North America. She spent a decade as a professional ski patroller at Stevens Pass, teaches Nordic skiing in the Methow Valley, and surveys the North Cascades wolverines as a field biologist.

              A Michigan native, the Pacific Northwest has been home to Steph since 2001. She lives with her husband, Drew, in Twisp.

            • Karen grew up in Germany. Her childhood dream of becoming a mountain guide took some time to realize while she was busy studying Physics and racing road bikes. Finally, she found her passion for skiing and mountain climbing in Colorado.

              She spent many years ski touring the San Juan backcountry in Colorado, racing on the ski mountaineering circuit, and ski patrolling at the Telluride Ski Area where she did avalanche control work and forecasting. She has climbed and skied most of the Colorado Fourteeners, the Grand Teton, and Denali, along with trips to the Canadian Rockies, Alaska, Japan, the European Alps, and the high Andes in Chile.

              Karen started guiding in 2009, turning her passion for the outdoors into a profession. She now guides year round in different mountain ranges, from the volcanoes in the Northwest and the snowy Tetons in Wyoming to the beautiful sandstone of Red Rock outside of Las Vegas and the majestic peaks of Alps. She is also an avalanche course instructor for the American Avalanche Institute and is one of the owners of Chicks, her mission is educating and training women to be skilled, self-reliant climbers and skiers.

            • Ross grew up in Central Washington where his passion for being in the outdoors started at an early age. His previous profession as a Forest Service Smokejumper brought him to the Methow Valley in 2016, and he hasn’t left since.     

               

              Ross’s pursuit of mountain and cultural exploration has taken him from the wilds of the Tien Shan in Central Asia to the Himalaya of Nepal. The North Cascades will always be his favorite place to explore, though, and he never gets tired of venturing into a new part of the range. 

               

              Ross holds an Avalanche Professional Level 1 certification and has taken the Rock, Alpine, and Ski Guides Courses through the American Mountain Guides Association. When he is not out climbing or skiing in the North Cascades, he can be found enjoying life with his partner, Cristina, and their dog, Koda. 

            1:1 $935

            2:1 $650 (per person)

            Dates

             

             

            Duration